Edinburgh's appetite for wild foods

Walking in Edinburgh’s Hermitage of Braid nature reserve during spring, I couldn’t help but notice a strong aroma, something that smelled familiar and perhaps, edible?

It was allium ursinum, more commonly known as wild garlic. Fit for human consumption, foragers collect this woodland plant to replace its supermarket-bought relative in their cooking.

Mini expeditions to local parks, woodlands and green spaces can yield wild garlic, along with other edible  finds such as mushrooms and berries.  The concept of foraging is nothing new – but it’s having a moment in the 2020s.

While gathering wild ingredients in public spaces may not yet be mainstream, Edinburgh’s restaurant scene has embraced the trend. Local spots like Montrose, Nàdair, Wedgwood and Pomelo feature foraged ingredients on their seasonal menus or include them in their cooking.

Search-engine data shows increases in UK searches for terms like ‘foraging near me’ and ‘foraging book’ over the last few years. This aligns with the decade’s other trends relating to food, traditional skills and self-sufficiency – activities like homesteading, beekeeping and making foods like pickles and sourdough from scratch.

People are also showing interest in eating less meat. Reasons for ‘flexitarianism’ differ per individual, but those with environmental or ethical concerns may lean towards lower-impact meat choices, such as ‘wild meats’, in the form of grouse, hare and deer hunted in season. Various initiatives encourage the consumption of wild venison to support sustainable deer-population management, and reduce the impact of deer on forests and peatlands.

One restaurant taking advantage of Scotland’s wild produce is Michelin-starred Timberyard, which now exclusively uses wild meat, focusing on rabbit, pigeon and venison, from late January to late August. Executive chef Bart Stratfold says the transition was a smooth one, as game was already established on the menu:

“People would imagine that this would make our life harder, but it doesn’t. We have a year-round supply of wild animals and the ability to change the menu whenever we want. We don’t have to conform to structure or dishes. There is a fluidity to the way we work which means that there are no disadvantages.”

Despite its cooler climate, Scotland has forageable produce year-round. Highlights include nettles and dandelions in spring; wild strawberries and elderflower in summer; mushrooms, crab apples and brambles in autumn; with winter a particularly good time for some seaweeds.

Timberyard’s forager and drinks developer, Anna Šebelová, explains that locally foraged ingredients have been crucial to the Timberyard experience since its opening: “It is the purest way of expressing our surroundings through food.

“Most of the plants we use are easy to spot on your daily walk to work and it’s so exciting to be able to share the many things out there that are edible and delicious.”

Some produce comes from Edinburgh’s immediate surrounds, but Anna also looks beyond the city: “I cover huge areas mainly to make sure that I am not taking too much from one place.”

It’s a team effort to keep up with the demands of the busy restaurant, with kitchen staff getting involved in the activity, and external foraging professionals supplying Timberyard with wild mushrooms, herbs and plants almost daily.

For those looking to give foraging a try, there are important safety and legal guidelines that must be considered carefully. Correct identification is crucial, as is safe food preparation and good hygiene.

As a starting point, enthusiasts should consult reference books and reliable online sources like the Scottish Outdoor Access Code's guidance on foraging. First-timers may feel more confident with the help of a professional: experienced forager Judith Lamb runs courses through her business Edinburgh Forage and Eat.

When taking a walk, it can be easy to overlook nature’s edible gifts surrounding us. The increasing use of wild foods by Edinburgh’s restaurants may serve as inspiration for home cooks wanting to forge a deeper connection with our land and food sources.

Photography Anna Šebelová/Timberyard